While I went to berlin for the history, I fell in love with the culture. Every block there is a gallery. Every culture is accepted and every piece of art is considered at first art until proven otherwise. Graffitti is not covered up or white washed. And some of it really is fantastic. Some of it is more like 'I love julie' in bubble letters.
In North Mitte, there is a six floor building that belongs to 'squatters'. Originially, the squatters came in at the fall of the wall and fought with the local gov't to stay. The gov't tried everything to get them out - but nothing worked. (Squatters have a lot of rights in Europe). Finally they thought of something - there were no windows it was a safety hazard. The art community banded together and formed a political society. They then went to the European Union, got a grant and installed some windows. The local gov't still couldn't kick them out. Finally a deal was reached in about 2000 - they pay 50 cents a month for the entire building. That's it. It's crazy. I love that this city said alright to that and didn't try and bulldoze the place.
While no one 'lives' in the building now - it's six floors of free gallerys, free studio space, a penthouse for installation art, a dj pit sand floor with sculptures and generally a positive environment to support the arts.
The city is poor - but it makes sure that nothing in the arts dies. And that is what makes it fantastic.
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